A baker's dozen of the best places in the city to get the scoop.

MANHATTAN

Lexington Candy Shop. This traditional luncheonette sells one of the best ice creams in town -- Bassett's. Its home ground is Reading Terminal in Philadelphia, and it's a reminder of what old-fashioned American ice cream is supposed to taste like. The flavors are classic: vanilla, chocolate, strawberry and coffee. If you're looking for something a little more newfangled, you might try the ice cream sandwich. 1226 Lexington Avenue; 212-288-0057.

Fauchon. They don't call it French ice cream for nothing. The product sold at this chic Madison Avenue branch of the Paris specialty store is rich and creamy and comes in 26 flavors, among them: rosewater, mango-curry, lemon-basil, and chocolate caramel as well as the classic vanilla. 1000 Madison Avenue; 212-570-2211.

Sedutto. There's a range of 25 or so flavors, among them peach, coconut, and cookie dough. There are also fruity sorbets, and if all this sounds too fattening, they also sell Tasti-Delight, a diet ice cream concoction. 1498 First Avenue; 212-879-9557.

Rosa Mexicano. Out in front of the restaurant a colorful cart dispenses cones, but forget the vanilla and strawberry. Instead, choose from avocado-honey, corn, or tequila-raisin ice cream or mango or guava sorbet. Columbus Avenue at 62nd Street; 212-977-7700

Coldstone Creamery. The first one in the city, this Arizona-based ice cream store opened in Times Square in June. Among the more exotic offerings is cake-batter ice cream, but whatever flavor you choose, you can mix it up with add-ins like Heath Bars, Almond Joys, M&Ms -- even apple-pie filling. 255 West 42nd Street; 212-398-1882.

Custard Beach. For soft ice cream, pass up the Mr. Softee truck and head to Grand Central station, to Custard Beach. Every day there are a few specials, like capuccino or blackberry in addition to vanilla and chocolate. If Midtown is too far away, there's a branch in the World Financial Center. 109 East 42nd Street; 983-9155.

Ciao Bella. Gelato is the thing here, in flavors like hazelnut, green tea, pistachio, malted milk or triple espresso. Among the sorbets, there are grapefruit-compari, blood orange, lemongrass, and triple espresso. 227 Sullivan Street; 212-505-7100.

Ferrara. They call themselves the city's oldest pasticceria, and they must know what they're talking about. Age isn't everything, though, and there are other cafes where you can get pastry that's as good or better. What you can't find anywhere else is the espresso granita, icy, granular, and bitter, exactly the way it's supposed to be. 195 Grand Street; 212-226-6150.

Chinatown Ice Cream Factory. It isn't really a factory -- it's more a small store where they make their own ice cream. In addition to American classics like butter pecan, there are almond cookie, ginger, mango, and red bean. Green tea, too. 65 Bayard Street; 212-608-4170.

QUEENS

Lemon Ice King. They've been here for 60 years, which means they've sold a lot of ice. Every day there are somewhere around 35 flavors, which range from the traditional lemon to cherry and orange-vanilla, and on through exotica like peanut butter or chocolate-chip. For dieters, there are sugar-free choices. 50-02 108th Street, Corona; 718-699-5133.

Eddie's Sweet Shop. This traditional sweet shop makes its own ice creams and serves up a mean sundae or ice cream soda. If it's a cone you want, you can have that, too. Flavors include vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry, plus pistachio-pineapple, peach, blueberry, and banana. 105-29 Metropolitan Avenue, Forest Hills; 718-520-8514.

BROOKLYN

L & B Spumoni Garden. They're famous for their spumoni, but they also have ices and ice creams. In fact, some people swear by the vanilla-flavored cremolata. 2725 86th Street, Brooklyn; 718-372-8400.

Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory. The classics reign here. Each day, they offer a few flavors, with vanilla the most popular. Other choices: chocolate, peach, butter pecan, and coffee. Even without getting exotic, there is a loyal following who call theirs New York's finest (ice cream that is). 2 Old Fulton Street; 718-246-3963