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Copyright 2004. Arthur Schwartz, Stewart, Tabori and Chang.


Find more recipes, get the book

Arthur Schwartz's New York City Food: An Opinionated History and More Than 100 Legendary Recipes
by Arthur Schwartz, Chris Callis (photographer)
Stewart, Tabori and Chang, 2004. 400pp.

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Oyster Pan Roast

Oyster Bar in Grand Central Terminal

1 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons to 1/4 cup oyster or clam juices
8 to 10 Bluepoint oysters or small clams (Littlenecks or cherry stones), shucked
1 generous tablespoon Heinz chili sauce
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Dash of celery salt
1/2 cup heavy cream
4 toast points: 2 slice firm white bread, toasted, cut diagonally to form triangles
1 teaspoon butter, in a pat (optional)
Sweet paprika

In a 1-quart saucepan, or in the top of a double boiler over boiling water, combine the 2 tablespoons butter, the oyster or clam juices, the oysters or clams, chili sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and celery salt.

Stir briskly and beat until the mixture simmers around the edge of the pan and the oysters or clams begin to curl around the edges. Add the cream and return ot a simmer.

Pour the mixture into a bowl lined with the toast points. Top with a pat of butter, if using, and a liberal sp rinkling of paprika.

Eat immediately.

Yield: 1 serving.

 



Nesselrode Pie

One of the attractions of Nesselrode pie was its monumental size. It was a huge dome of cream. To achieve that height and volume of filling, you must shape the filling in a mixing bowl, which you then turn out into a prebaked pie crut. If you do not want to attempt this feat, halve the recipe for the filling to make just enough to generously fill a 9-inch shell.

Candied chestnuts packed in syrup are imported from Turkey at a very reasonable price and are available in Middle Eastern food stores and other specialty markets. There are French chestnuts in syrup too, but they cost more and are of the same quality. I do not include multicolored tutti frutti--bits of candied fruits--but you are free to add them. Substitute them ofr as much as half the amount of chopped candied chestnuts. If desired, soak the candied fruit in sweet wine before adding them.

6 tablespoons dark rum
2 envelopes unflavored gelatin
3 cups heavy cream
1 cup milk
4 eggs
2 egg whites
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup sugar
1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped, drained chestnuts in syrup
1 prebaked 9-inch pie shell
A block of semisweet chocolate to shave into curls

In a cup or ramekin, combine the rum and 2 tablespoons water, then sprinkle the gelatin over the surface. Set aside. The gelatin will soften and absorb the liquid.

In a small saucepan, combine the cream and milk and place over medium-low heat. Stir occasionally. Remove from the heat when the mixture starts steaming, but before it begins to boil; this takes about 10 minutes.

Separate the eggs, placing the yolks in a medium mixing bowl and the 6 whites in another, immaculately clean medium mixing bow.

Using a wooden spoon, stir the salt and 1/4 cup of the sugar into the yolks. Slowly pour the hot, scalded cream mixture into the yolk mixture, stirring constantly. Pour this mixture into the top of a double boiler and place over simmering water (or put the mixture in a bowl set over a pot of simmering water) and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened. Do not allow the custard to boil or it will curdle.

Stir the gelatin mixture into the cooked c ustard. Chill, stirring frequently, until almost set. It should not be so set, however, that when you stir it, it breaks into clumps. You can put the mixture in the refrigerator or speed up the chilling process by placing the bowl of custard in a larger bowl filled with ice.

Beat the egg whites until they hold soft peaks, then add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar, a tablespoons at a time, while continuing to beat until stiff.

Stir the chestnuts into the nearly set custard. Fold in the beaten egg whites.

To make the filling dome, line a mixing bowl with plastic wrap. Pour the filling mixture into the bowl. Place in the freezer until very well set, about 2 hours. (it is best to have the filling slightly frozen to make it easier to turn out into the pie shell. If not making the dome, pour the filling directly into the pie shell and chill well in the refrigerator.) Carefully turn the bowl of well-chilled cream filling into the pie shell, centering it as best you can. The filling, if slightly frozen, is less fragile than you expect, and it can be adjusted into the shell.

To make chocolate curls, use a swivel-bladed vegetable peeler to shave the block of chocolate. Decorate the top of the pie with the curls.

Yield: Makes one 9-inch pie, serving 6 to 8.


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