January 5, 2003, New York Times Magazine
66 recipe

Jean-George's Sesame Noodles

For the broth:
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup black vinegar
1/4 cup rice vinegar
1/4 cup shao shing wine
1/2 cup sugar
1 ounce fresh cilantro
1/2 hot red chili
1 cinnamon stick, crushed
1 tablespoon coriander seeds

For the sesame-peanut paste:
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon pureed fresh ginger root
1/2 teaspoon pureed garlic
1 Thai chili, broken into small pieces
3/4 cup toasted peanuts, chopped
3/4 cup toasted sesame seeds
Dark sesame oil
Peanut oil
Salt to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste
5 ounces bean-paste
vermicelli noodles

For the crystallized wasabi:
9 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons wasabi powder

For the garnish:
Slivered apples, cucumbers, scallions and fresh bean sprouts

1. To make the broth, boil the soy sauce, vinegars, wine and sugar, stirring to dissolve. Add the remaining ingredients and steep, covered, 45 minutes.

2. To make the paste, saute the sugar, ginger, garlic and chili until it is coated with melted sugar and carmelized. Reserve 2 tablespoons each peanuts and sesame seeds for garnish and blend the remainder in a food processor with the ginger mixture, adding the oils to make a paste. Season with salt and cayenne.

3. Cover the noodles with 1 quart boiling water and stir until loosened. Set aside until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain.

4. To make the crystallized wasabi, mix the sugar and wasabi powder thoroughly, then add 5 to 6 teaspoons cold water until ''pebbles'' form.

5. To serve, spoon 1/4 cup broth into each of 4 shallow serving bowls. Add 1/8 of the noodles, the paste and the garnishes, including the peanuts and seeds, then repeat. Crumble wasabi pebbles around the noodles in the broth.

Yield: 4 servings.

January 5, 2003, New York Times Magazine
66 recipe

Crispy Aromatic Duck

1 6-pound duck 2/3 cup kosher salt 1/4 cup black peppercorns 5 tablespoons Sichuan peppercorns 3 tablespoons cumin seeds 2 tablespoons five-spice powder 6 3-by-1/8-inch slices peeled fresh ginger root 12 scallions, 6 cut into 3-inch lengths, 6 finely shredded Flour for dusting 1 to 2 cups peanut oil Chinese mandarin pancakes (see note) Hoisin sauce.

1. Rinse and dry the duck. Rub it inside and out with a mixture of salt, peppercorns, cumin and spice powder, then refrigerate in a plastic bag overnight.

2. Brush the spices off the duck and stuff the ginger and 3-inch lengths of scallion into the cavity. Steam, covered, for 2 hours, adding boiling water as necessary.

3. Remove the duck and discard the ginger and scallions. Cool until dry, about 2 hours.

4. Cut the duck into quarters, dust with flour and shake off excess. Fry the legs and thighs in peanut oil for 12 to 15 minutes, breasts 8 to 10 minutes, until crisp. Drain, and when cool, shred the meat with a fork.

5. To serve, brush each pancake with hoisin to taste, add some shredded duck and scallions and roll up as for Peking duck.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.